Despite doubts among Singaporeans that anybody would dare openly criticise the government, for fear of retribution, 25 people signed up to speak on September 1 at the park, designated "Speaker's Corner". It is modelled on that in Hyde Park in London and is where in the 1950s and 1960s many momentous issues were debated.

They railed against everything from the S$1million (US$588,235) salaries paid to ministers to the rules restraining speakers in the park - yet nobody was arrested.

The rules are posted on signs around the park, located in the central business district: speakers must be Singaporean citizens, register to speak in advance, not use amplification, confine oratory to between 7 am and 7 pm any day of the week, and not raise religion or any topic that might cause hostility between racial or religious groups.

As evening fell hundreds of Singaporeans converged. A police car and van met them in the parking lot. But out on the grass and under the trees, where the speakers - a man on a coffee table, a woman on a bench and others on the bare ground - took to their soapboxes, there was no sign of official intimidation.

Yet the crowd remained hesitant to let loose. "We want independence of mind - freedom," shouted one speaker, trying to get the people to chant "freedom" with him. But only a dozen half-heartedly joined in. Ironically, in a place set aside for free speech, many Singaporeans were too afraid to comment on the relaxation of the rules or the speakers themselves. Some simply turned and walked away; others pretended they could not hear the speakers and, therefore, could not pass judgment.

When pressed, a 25-year-old man who would not divulge his name complained it was too humid to stay long and too difficult to hear without microphones. He said he might come back - in about a month - but hoped the speakers would co-ordinate to vary the topics.

But a 61-year-old man who was clearly enjoying the spectacle said he would come every evening. "The people can talk about what is inside their heart instead of keeping something secret inside," said the man, who would identify himself only as Mr Foo. Around him couples pushed their prams through the crowd and children blew bubbles.

The opposition - the Singapore Democratic party - declined to dignify the event by speaking but set up umbrellas, under which it briskly sold the party newspaper. Members erected anti-government placards on the grass and distributed a flier that read: "We must not confuse freedom of speech with the illusion of freedom of speech, which is what the speaker's corner is."